Baden - Ortenau Wine Trail
The Baden Wine Route offers passionate wine hikers a variety of routes over a total of 160 kilometers. We would like to take a closer look at the 12 km stage from Neusatz via Sasbachwalden to Kappelrodeck.
Our starting point is in the Neusatz district of Gebersberg, from where we first follow the signposted wine trail. It is quite steep in this section, but once it is behind us, the path leads us uphill through the field more moderately and finally, gentle descends into the Laufbach valley.
In front of us is the village of Lauf, which was first mentioned in 1383. The municipality initially belonged to the Imperial Austrian district of Ortenau and was awarded to the Grand Duchy of Baden in 1805. The prime landmark of the area, Neu-Windeck Castle, is popularly known as "Laufen Castle". This medieval fortification was built by the Lords of Windeck around 1300 and has been a ruin since 1580, appearing picturesque in the lovely landscape. However, the ravages of time have so badly affected the old walls that a visit is unfortunately not possible due to the risk of falling rocks.
As we leave the castle ruins behind, we alternate through orchards and vineyards, an idyllic sight to inspire dreams. We finally pass the “Alde Gott” shrine, the namesake of the region's Pinot Noir, a sparkling garnet to ruby red in color, then on to the cozy half-timbered village of Sasbachwalden. To really enjoy the charming atmosphere of this wine-growing town, we stop at one of the numerous restaurants and fortify ourselves with local specialties and delicious wine. The "Alde Gott Stuben" (Talstrasse 51), the restaurant "Zum Fässlewirt" (Murberg 1) or the café-restaurant "Rebstock" (Königsrainstrasse 2) are recommended, but there are so many places in Talstrasse alone, that nobody will go hungry or thirsty.
Rejuvenated, we follow the wine trail towards Kappelrodeck. The path leads steeply uphill and it takes some effort until we are finally rewarded with a wonderful view of the Achertal extending in front of us.
We now walk downhill through beautiful vineyards and finally reach our destination, Kappelrodeck, the red wine community famous throughout Germany. Rodeck Castle, dating from the 11th century, towers over the home of the ‘Witch of Dasenstein’. It is one of the few castles that has seen no major destruction over the centuries so is well preserved. From there you have an excellent view of the Rhine Valley all the way to Strasbourg.
Another worthwhile destination is the Zuckerbergschlösschen, a romantic and playful gem that stands in a spacious park with magnificent trees. In the castle café we can now relax after our exertion and let the impressions of the day pass us by.
As a classic wine-growing region, Kappelrodeck naturally offers its visitors plenty of opportunities to regenerate after a long day of hiking. The Gasthaus Linde (Marktplatz 112) in the middle of the village is a good place to settle in.
Hours walking time
Ortenau Wine Trail
Neusatz - Kappelrodeck
Blue grapes on a red diamond in white rectangles. Red line to the left and right of it
A sporty climb at the beginning, but then undulating terrain. Paved paths, partly asphalted. The route also leads through forests and offers from time to time some wonderful views over the Rhine plain.
Various parking spaces in the center of Neusatz
World of Living
Casino / Thermen / Kurpark
Galerie mit Gastronomie
Straußwirtschaft (seasonal wine taverns) are a tradition dating back to Charlemagne that allow winemakers to offer their own wines and snacks for a few months in the year. As a sign that they were open, a bouquet (Strauß) or a broom (Besen) was attached to the gate.
These wine bars are only called "Straußwirtschaft" in the Alemannic dialect, in Swabian they are called "Besenwirtschaften" or simply "Besen”.
In Baden's wine-growing region, the “Strauße", as they are called, are limited to 40 seats and may be open for a maximum of 16 weeks per year, often divided into spring and autumn. The variety here is greater than anywhere else. The best way to get an overview is on the Internet.